I've always thought that Shanghai has been purposely romantised because of its unforgettable yet vivid colonial past. A stereotype comes to mind when talking about Shanghai's past, is the lifestyle in foreign concession in the 1920s to 1930s (similar to the 'Roaring Twenties' in the West): the Jazz scene; the song 'Ye Shanghai' (below second video); Eileen Chang's beautiful, sorrowful love stories; 'The Blue House' in the family life of Shanghai; Ang Lee's controversial film, 'Lust, Caution' ... Adding romance to this city, are the poignant love stories of famous female artists including Eileen Chang (张爱玲, writer), Hu Die (胡蝶, actress/singer), Lu Xiaoman (陆小曼, painter), Pan Yuliang (潘玉良, painter), Ruan Lingyu (阮玲玉, actress) and Zhou Xuan (周璇, actress/singer), for whom you would feel sympathetic after knowing about the stories of their lives.
Life in foreign concession in the 1920s
Ye Shanghai, Zhou Xuan
Rose, Rose, I love you, Yao Lee
Lust, Caution trailer
Left: Guang Sheng Hang adverting, 1931;
Right: Yin Dan Shi Lin advertising, 1930s
Until I spent my three days in Shanghai, I realised that to use the word 'purposely' is probably not accurate, or could be totally wrong. Anyhow, I have to admit, that when you are walking on the streets of Shanghai, breathing the cold air, it is impossible not to be romantic - the feeling is unexplainable but there is some poetic, spiritual quality about this city that makes it so romantic and lovable, that you only wish you could be in love with someone and wander in the city day and night (like the walking lovers in Takeshi Kitano's film, Dolls).
It could be that romantic. But in my reality, the three days of walking alone in my black canvas converse sneakers resulted a huge corn on my left foot, leaving a bubbly spot on this trip but gave me enough inspiration and encouragement to discover more about the world. Below are some interesting buildings in the foreign concession, a fascinating area that reflects the up and low of, not only Shanghai's cityscape but its culture and history. Most of the information was translated from Chinese by myself. Skip it if you think my translation is dull. Otherwise, enjoy.
French Concession: Xu Hui / Lu Wan / Jing An (徐汇 / 卢湾 / 静安)
It is too complicated to talk about the French Concession itself. For the area's history visit Wikipedia, Google or the library.
Cathay Mansion (华懋公寓), built in 1925-1929
Cathay Mansion was built by Sir Victor Sassoon, the fourth generation of the Sassons, one of the world's most wealthiest families who had a merchant empire spanning the continent of Asia. After moving to Shanghai in 1923, Sir Victor Sassoon brought to the city his flamboyant costume parties and greyhound racing; opened more than 30 companies; and constructed many properties including some of the city's landmark buildings, such as Broadway Mansions, Sassoon House, Palace Hotel, Cathay Cinema, Hamilton Building and Metropole Hotel, dominating Shanghai's business and real estate market in the early 20th century.
Originally the stylish Art Deco Cathay Mansions was a hotel for English dignitaries. Later on it came under the government's control and was renamed 'Jin Jiang Hotel', appointed to be the hotel for the world's political leaders including Margaret Thatcher, Ronald Reagan, Fidel Castro, Zhou Enlai and Richard Nixon. Address: No.59, Maoming Nan Road, Lu Wan District, Shanghai.

Left: Cathay Mansion, Shanghai. Photo by Danling Xiao @ The Flying Room
Right: Cathay Mansion laundry, 1930s
Mingfu Library (明复图书馆), built in 1931
Mingfu Library was home to the Science Society of China, a major science organisation in the modern history of China. It was also the birth place of the organisation's first publication, Science, the most authoritative academic journal in China in the 1930s. Although the interior of the library is quite simple, the exterior adopts a highly decorative style in both geometric and floral patterns. Address: No.235, Shanxi Nan Road, Luwan District, Shanghai.
Mingfu Library, Shanghai. Photo by Danling Xiao @ The Flying Room
Left: Mingfu Library, Shanghai. Photo by Danling Xiao @ The Flying Room
Right: Science magazine Vol. 1 No. 1, 1915, published by Science Society of China
Pei Mansion (贝轩大公馆), built in 1934
Pei Mansion was owned by the family of Pritzker Prize winning architect, I.M.Pei (贝聿铭, most famously known for his Louvre Pyramid in Paris). Pei Mansion is in Art Deco style but decorated with Chinese ornaments, such as dragon, coin, and Chinese characters. The garden design drew inspiration from the classical gardens of Suzhou, featuring a constructed landscape of natural scenery of rocks, hills and ponds filled with Japanese Coy. Pei Mansion is now run as a hotel. Address: 170 Nanyang Rd, JingAn District, Shanghai.
Pei Mansion, Shanghai
Orthodox Church of Our Lady Hall, Shanghai (东正教圣母大堂), built in 1932
If the purpose of the round structure and floor-leveled iconography in Orthodox church architecture is to communicate to the soul the idea that 'the church
is not so much pointing the way, but actually is heaven on earth', you would feel the closest to heaven when you encounter the Orthodox Church of Our Lady Hall on the street of Shanghai. Featuring five domes in peacock blue, the building is a classical Russian Orthodox church design, if not strictly the same. Initially painted with iconography, the murals had been covered in wall paints since the Cultural Revolution and was restored in 2007. Address: No.55 Xinle Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai.
Orthodox Church of Our Lady Hall, Shanghai. Photo via Flickr
Moller Villa (马勒住宅), built in 1936
The Scandinavian fairy tale house Moller Villa adds mysterious, dreamy quality to Shanghai's cityscape. Owned by Eric Moller, a Swedish shipping magnate who made his fortune in Shanghai by winning large sums at the horse races, Moller Villa was designed based on the castle Moller's youngest daughter had in her dream. The villa was also known for its ten years of construction - it is said that Moller kept adding bits and bobs to the buildings, because he was told that his fortune would befall him once the construction was finished.
Moller Villa consists six buildings with a total of 106 rooms. In distinctive Scandinavian style, the villa refers to ship design with interior resembles the structure of a ship; and finishes with Chinese touches, including Chinese glazed tiles at the top of the enclosing walls, Chinese antiques and decorations. Moller Villa is now run as a boutique hotel. Address: No.30 Shanxi Nan Road, Jing'an District, Shanghai. See more photos here.
Moller Villa, Shanghai
Hungarian-Slovak architect László Hudec is one of the most important figures in Shanghai's architecture history. Active in Shanghai from 1918 to 1945, the Siberian prison camp escapee who jumped from a train near the Chinese border and made his way to Shanghai, Hudec has designed at least 37 buildings in Shanghai, including the city's most notable structures such as Park Hotel, Residence of Wu Tongwen (known as 'Green House') and Avenue Apartments, varied in different styles from Neoclassicism to Art Deco to Modernism. Below are a few Hudec's buildings that show the architect's versatility and artistic contributions to Shanghai's cityscape.
Former Residence of Ding Guitang (丁贵堂公馆), built in 1932
The former residence of Ding Guitang was the residence for the head of China's Custom Service, which by the time had been controlled by the British and French colonists for decades. During the Second Sino-Japanese War, Chinese Ding Guitang took over the position and moved into the house. When the Japanese troops won the victories in Shanghai, Ding was living in this house under the Japanese's surveillance before escaping to Chongqing.
The symmetrical three-storey house is in traditional Spanish house style, featuring cream stucco exterior walls, red tile roof, arched porches and windows. Designed by László Hudec. Address: No.45, Fenyang Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai.
Former Residence of Ding Guitang, Shanghai
Former Residence of Wu Tongwen / Green House (吴同文住宅), built in 1937
Once considered the most luxurious home in the Far East, the former residence of the Old Shanghai's 'Pigment Magnate', Wu Tongwen, was László Hudec's last masterpiece in Shanghai. Covered in green titles (thus also known as the 'Green House'), this modern house is characterised with streamlined curves and was predicted to still be at the forefront in 50 years from when it was built, promised by Hudec to Wu in 1937.
Seeing it as his 'Cherry Orchard', Wu vowed that he would never leave the Green House and in 1966, when the Communist Party was collectivising all private properties, Wu committed suicide with his wife in this house. Besides the Pei Mansion (mentioned above), I.M. Pei, Wu's nephew, also spent his childhood in the Green House, which might be another early inspiration for his legendary career. Address: No.333, Tongren Road, Jing'an District, Shanghai.

Former Residence of Wu Tongwen / Green House, Shanghai
Avenue Apartments (爱文公寓), built in 1932
Opposite to the Green House is another design of László Hudec, who by the time could be in search of a new style under the influence of the modernist movement in Europe. Moving forward from his already known I.S.S Normandies Apartment (1924) and Estrelia Apartment (1926), Hudec came up with Avenue apartments with an emphasis on simplicity and functionality. Address: No.304, Tongren Road, Jing'an District, Shanghai.
Avenue Apartments, Shanghai. Photo via here
Nanjing Road / The Bund (南京路 / 外滩)
Park Hotel (国际饭店), built 1934
A prime example of Art Deco building, Park Hotel is Hudec's most iconic piece among the works he had created in Shanghai. Strongly inspired by the American Radiator Building, it embraced the straight lines of Art Deco skyscrapers, featuring dark brown exterior walls and ladder-shaped floors at the top of the building from Level 15. Park Hotel remained the tallest building in Asia until 1952.
Interestingly, the building was rumoured to be Chairman Mao's favourite, however, most of the interior was deliberately changed by the Communists in the 1950s because the building's bourgeois style was against the Party's ideology. Since the 1980s, some of the Art Deco features have been restored and returned to the original designs. Address: No.170, Nanjing Xi Road, Shanghai.
Park Hotel (second left building) on Nanjing Xi Road, Shanghai
If Park Hotel alone shows a strong influence of Western culture in the Old Shanghai, The Bund must be an overwhelming symbol of Western imperialism, that forcefully throws the colonialists' ambition for power and money right in your face. The Bund's history is too complicated to be talked about here (just Google!). In short, The Bund had been a British settlement and later a British/American settlement between 1844 and 1943. It was a major financial hub of East Asia and attracted many banks, businesses and newspapers from the West to settle in Shanghai. On the dark side, it was a place for opium trading, prostitution and gangster killing.
I guess being in a place like The Bund, any Chinese would probably feel the strongest connection to his/her root - although I was born half century after the colonisation, miles away from this city, I still had a very intense, uncomfortable and sad feeling about The Bund when I was surrounded by those almost alien-made Neoclassical buildings that set foot in my motherland almost a century earlier than me. Therefore I took a few snaps and quickly left the area. Below I will only feature Peace Hotel, of which the name has been borrowed for the title of a Chow Yun-fat (Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon)'s film, a classic Hong Kong heroic bloodshed genre film set in 1930s' Shanghai.
The Bund, Shanghai in the 1930s
Peace Hotel (和平饭店), built 1929
Owned by Sir Victor Sassoon (mentioned above), Peace Hotel consists of two buildings, Sassoon House (Cathay Hotel) and Palace Hotel, separated by the busy Nanjing Road. Sassoon House adopts a distinctive Art Deco style with a 19-meter dark-green pyramidal copper top that has been a prominent symbol of The Bund. The south wing, Palace Hotel adopts a Renaissance style and was merged with Sassoon House to form Peace Hotel in 1965.
Title 'Peace Hotel', Chow Yun-fat's heroic gangster film set in 1930s' Shanghai, could be a good watch if you want to learn about China in the old days but not so much about old glitzy glamour of The Bund. Watch trailer below.
Sassoon House (North wing of Peace Hotel), Shanghai
Peace Hotel film trailer
Left: buildings on Yuanmingyuan Road, The Bund; Right: Anpei Foreign Firm
Photo by Danling Xiao @ The Flying Room
Left: building in The Bund; Right: Anpei Foreign Firm
Photo by Danling Xiao @ The Flying Room
Left: Industrial Bank on Yuanmingyuan Road, The Bund
Right: Everbright Bank entrance in maintenance, on Daming Road, The Bund
Photo by Danling Xiao @ The Flying Room
Building in The Bund
Photo by Danling Xiao @ The Flying Room
Left: Manhattan Business Hotel; Right: hanging clothes
Photo by Danling Xiao @ The Flying Room
Xintiandi (新天地)
Before knowing the trendy shops and restaurants in Xintiandi, one should learn about this interesting residential buildings called 'shikumen buildings', which have been traditionally resided by Shanghainese since the 1860s. Shikumens, meaning 'stone gate house', are two-or-three-storey structures resembling Anglo-American terrace houses or townhouses, with high brick walls enclosing a narrow front yard that was designed to suit the local Chinese's living habits. There were once 9000 shikumen-style buildings in Shanghai, comprising 60% of the total housing stock of the city. These buildings are also famous for being homes and studios for many leading figures of modern Chinese literature in the 1920s and 1930s.
Today many shikumen-style houses have been replaced with high-rise apartments - inevitably the same destiny like many other historical buildings in China. Therefore it was quite delightful to see Xintiandi, a 2001 re-development project that reconstituted traditional shikumen houses and transformed the area to a successful car-free shopping, dining and entertainment district. The sad thing about the project is probably the displacement of 3,500 Shanghainese families - again that is another thing way too complicated to talk about in this post. Let's just enjoy all the beautiful details of the architecture for now.
Shikumen houses in Xintiandi, Shanghai
Left: interior of a private club in Xintiandi, Shanghai
Right: Shanghai Tang in Xintiandi, Shanghai
Photo by Danling Xiao @ The Flying Room
Shikumen houses in Xintiandi, Shanghai
Fragments of Shanghai is composed of three sections: Architecture Part 1, Architecture Part 2 and Arts. Stay tuned for the second part of Shanghai's architecture.
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